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By definition, acid is a low pH solution. The lower the pH or the less diluted, the stronger the acid. Low pH substances will harden organic material. When used in skin care preparations, acidic ingredients (e.g. glycolic, alphahydroxy, lactic) can leave acid residues if overused. This changes the natural pH of the skin. Because skin cannot regenerate faster than the residues are being deposited and compounded, this alteration in the natural pH interferes with the normal functioning of the skin to eventually damage it.
As stated in the MERCK INDEX, AN ENCYCLOPEDIA OF CHEMICALS AND DRUGS, glycolic acid is a constituent of sugar cane juice. It is "odorless, somewhat hygroscopic crystale" ... "soluble in water, methanol, alcohol, acetone, acetic acid, ether." It is used "in the processing of textiles, leather and metals; in pH control, and wherever a cheap organic acid is needed, e.g. in the manufacture of adhesives, in copper brightening, decontamination cleaning, dyeing, electroplating, in pickling, cleaning and chemical milling of metals. CAUTION: Mild irritant to skin, mucous membranes."
In DORLAND'S ILLUSTRATED MEDICAL DICTIONARY, glycol is identified as "useful as solvents and plasticizers." The dictionary goes on to state that "plasticizing" is regarded as the result of polymerization, in which an organic compound of high molecular weight is formed by chemically combining compounds of lower molecular weight, often by the elimination of water or other simple compounds. Because substances containing glycol are of higher molecular weight, they freeze or boil at lower and higher temperatures, which is why glycol is used in radiator antifreeze. Derivatives are used in extermination, furniture polishes, as solvents for printers ink, adhesives and pesticides, a stabilizer for latex paint, among other things.
In OSHA'S REGULATED HAZARDOUS SUBSTANCES, glycol-containing products are considered class I hazard. This means such substances may be fatal if ingested but have "acute and chronic local toxicity" levels of 2-1 to skin, mucous membranes and eyes.
In 27 years of research on the physiological effects of acid-containing cosmetic products, we have been unable to find any scientific references to the beneficial use of glycolic acid or glycol-containing solutions to skin. On the contrary, medical references define glycolic acid as an irritant and toxic substance.
Many consumers who were once eager to try these "advances" in "anti-aging" therapy, have now had an opportunity to do so, and frankly, have discovered that these products and procedures don't always deliver what they promise. After consistent and loyal use, many consumers are now seriously questioning the supposed benefits. Some claim to have experienced little, if any, "anti-aging" effects. Little wonder. In order for such products to be sold "over the counter," they must be formulated with active ingredients too low in concentration to have any real effect on the skin.
By definition, products containing acid concentrations capable of having any real effect on the skin are drugs, dispensed by prescription from professionals.
But then, Many consumers have likewise been disappointed by long-term use of higher-concentration products obtained from licensed practitioners for therapeutic use. Much of the disappointment stems from the negative results of acid residues left from high-concentration products which necessarily lower the skin's pH. This, in turn, has a direct and negative affect on proper skin functioning. For example, many long-term users of glycolic and alphahydroxy-containing products now note that moisturizers no longer penetrate the skin as they used to, deep-pore cleansers don't work any more, makeup tends to run and smudges easily, darkish" areas are beginning to appear as surface skin layers become thinner and more compact allowing surface capillary veins to literally show through the skin, and a slightly "bumpy" look and feel is resulting from the accumulation of oils, skin debris, and metabolic byproducts which become "trapped" under the hardened surface.
In our own experience, we have encountered individuals using glycolic and other acid-containing products, such as AHA etc., exhibiting marked skin dysfunction. With over-use or long-term use the skin has thinned, and appears translucent. Veins and the blood well under the skin become more evident giving areas of the skin a dark red, pink or "bluish" shinny appearance. Hardening of the skin occurs, so the skin becomes impervious to penetrating creams, oils and lotions. Conversely, toxins under the skin are unable to be expelled through normal skin respiration. These toxins further damage skin tissue and retard the development of underlining healthy skin to surface by interfering with the skin's regenerative capacity.
Because of the apparent adverse effects of acid-containing cosmetics, we at EPRI have historically discouraged their use. Recent studies by the federal Food and Drug Administration and European Commission support our recommendation. These studies suggest acid-containing cosmetic products may not only disturb natural skin function but may actually advance the visible signs of aging by hyper-sensitizing skin to damaging sun rays and interfering with the natural replication of DNA.
OTHER AHA SOURCES:
"Alpha Hydroxy Acids are the rage in skin preparations. They slough off the outer layers of skin, leaving new skin, plump with moisture, extremely sensitive, and vulnerable on the surface. Initially, this makes skin look
smooth and young. However, alpha hydroxy acids dissolve the intercellular "glue" that holds the surface skin cells together, so they are a repeated irritation and an insult to delicate skin.
>New research at the University of Pennsylvania shows that prolonged use of alpha hydroxy acids worsens the signs of aging over time! In fact, the study showed that when application of the alpha hydroxy acid stopped, wrinkles actually appeared deeper in skin that was irritated during the treatment than before applying the alpha hydroxy acid! Why? The skin becomes inflamed with the harsh acidic treatment. The natural inflammation response triggered enzymes in the skin to begin devouring the collagen proteins that normally provide the underlying structure to skin cells."
1. Negative effects of Glycolic (and all the acids)- without an antioxidant, Glycolic Acid (any acid) can cause premature aging of the skin.
Chitosan Ascorbate - Don't get this confused with "Chitosan" (Poly-N-Acetyl Glucosaminoglycan) which is used in weight loss formulas and has a bad rap for being unsafe as such, is an excellent antioxidant and also helps promote the synthesis of collagen, although we are using it here for its antioxidant qualities (important when using Glycolic acid which alone can cause premature aging of the skin).
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Skin Cancer, Sunscreen and SPF
Up to the early 1980's, sunscreens and sunblocks were religiously believed to be only for beach applications. The Australians have been the largest and most faithful users of sunscreens and sunblocks, and yet they have the world's highest skin cancer patients.
How UV-rays damage the skin
The epidermis, the outer-most layer of our skin, is no thicker than the normal writing paper. About 90% of the skin mass is collagen - a large protein that contributes to the skin form, function and strength. Collagen is the principal recipient of UV-induced skin damage. The UV-rays suppress collagen production by turning off the collagen-producing genes. Simultaneously, UV-rays activate collagen digestion by stimulating production of the destructive enzymes. Each occurrence will damage the skin with a micro rupture. Over the years, the micro-rupture will become macro, leading to prematurely wrinkled skin and hyper-pigmentation.
Is walking under the shade and staying indoor safe?
In his early years in the beauty industry, Dr. Pierre witnessed countless cases of premature-aging (UV-induced photo-aging) and hyper-pigmentation among his large customer base of helpless men and women. No Skin Care products in the market could address the problem of the day then. Day creams were made only to moisturize the skin. From his years of painstaking observation, Dr. Pierre discovered that the cumulative effect of the daily micro skin damage caused by indirect exposure to UV rays is as harmful. A few minutes walk under the shade outside, or staying indoors (with lots of natural lighting) is still unsafe. In our tropical climate, the UV-rays are intense. So long your eyes can see an object there are visible rays present, so as UV-rays, since UV-rays are directly beside the visible-rays in the light spectrum. So, there's no need to lie under the hot sun at the beach to get UV-induced skin damage. A small daily dose is enough to do harm over the years.
The Revolutionary Dr. Pierre Herbal Cosmeceuticals 3-in-1 Sunscreen Day Cream
Pierre saw the urgent need to do something to turn the tide. So, in 1983 he researched and developed the first revolutionary sunscreen day cream with an SPF 8 (that is, ability to protect the skin 8 times longer than an unprotected skin). He incorporated 3 application functions in the cream - as Sunscreen, Makeup Foundation and as Moisturizing Day Cream! Today, Dr. Pierre has 4 unique anti-UV formulations in his line of Herbal Cosmeceuticals products.
DR. PIERRE Herbal Cosmeceuticals products vs. the Competition
Making Skin Care product is no big deal, because most Skin Care manufacturers made them with Free Standard Formulations obtained from their Chemical/Raw Material suppliers. However, every DR. PIERRE product is uniquely researched and developed by Dr. Pierre himself to yield that unique efficacy and effectiveness that Free Standard Formulations could not deliver. DR. PIERRE products render fast positive results and yield a much silkier, radiant, youthful and baby-soft skin within days!
Countless people globally have benefited from Dr. Pierre's unique and revolutionary concoctions.
Is Higher SPF better?
Over the years, several competitors followed Dr. Pierre's footsteps, with several companies trying to outdo one another by offering SPF indices of up to as high as 100, in the expense and risk of the end-users! These companies irresponsibly (or ignorantly) educate end-users into believing that the higher the SPF the better. Dr. Pierre instantly saw the immense risk and warned the general consumer public (in the U.S. in particular) against using sunscreens with SPF that's higher than 15.
Reasons:
1. To yield higher SPF, higher concentrations of UV-absorbers need to be used. These are chemical block ingredients and will cause serious skin sensitizing.
2. UV-absorbers, while blocking UV-ray penetration into skin, absorb UV-rays and allow them to accumulate on the skin surface. Over time, via radiation delayed pigmentation and photo-aging results.
3. The extremely high SPF gives end-users a false sense of safety, and will prompt them to expose more and longer to direct sun. This will lead to amplified accumulation of much larger doses of UV-rays, thus larger doses of UV radiation through the skin, and a much higher chance of contracting skin cancer.
4. An unprotected skin of an average Caucasian will take about 15 to 20 minutes to show the first sign of Erythema under the direct hot sun. So, an SPF 100 sunscreen is supposed to protect the skin 25 to 33 hours longer (100 X 15 / 60; 100 X 20 / 60 ). However, the Sun never appears that long! And for the Chinese, with an average time of 25 to 30 minutes of exposure before the first sign of Erythema appears, SPF 100 translates into 42 to 50 hours of protection!
5. For lower SPF product, it requires only a little of or no UV-absorbers. Dr. Pierre use physical block ingredients, which work by reflecting and deflecting the UV-rays, thus rendering the UV-rays little chance to accumulate on the skin surface.
Today, several papers have been published by researchers on the risk of high SPF products. The FDA has issued a cap to limit labels of SPF to 30 max.
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BENEFITS OF JOJOBA OIL
Jojoba is a unique wonder of nature. The oil secreted by human sebaceous glands (known as Sebum), and Jojoba Oil are virtually identical. Sebum protects and moisturizes the skin and hair, but it is stripped away by chemicals, pollutants, the sun, and the aging process, resulting in dry skin and hair. 100% pure Jojoba Oil replenishes what our skin and hair lose, and it restores them to their natural pH balance. Hypo-allergenic Jojoba Oil beautifies and protects normal skin and hair, and also corrects problem skin and hair. Jojoba Oil, with both cosmetic and medicinal properties, is used for dry and flaky skin by dermatologists, cosmetologists, and massage therapists. Jojoba reduces wrinkles, treats psoriasis, acne, and neurodermatitis, and brings the skin back to its normal vitality and healthy glow. Problem skin and problem hair is no problem for Jojoba. Instead of too little sebum oil, some people build up excess deposits of sebum on their face and scalp, thus clogging the facial hair follicles causing blackheads, and clogging scalp's hair follicles, causing dandruff, hair loss, and scalp disorders. Jojoba Oil dissolves the excess sebum, cleanses the face, hair and scalp, and re-lubricates to the proper pH balance. Facial skin, hair and scalp become healthy again and natural growth takes place
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